Our First Amalfi Adventure!
Whenever I'm asked about my favorite region of Italy I start off in a quandary. Is there any city or village I don't love? Not a one. However, when my mind wanders off to Italy, it always lands on the Amalfi Coast. Sometimes I go to Capri, or Positano or Ravello - but always to Amalfi itself.
I'll never forget that first "whoosh" intake of breath, winding a bend on the Sorrento side, coming through a hill of umbrella pines when suddenly the vista opened up to the sparkling blue-green Sea.
We were startled when we noticed the jagged cliffs plunging almost 3,000 feet from the coastal road and then rising up as a pointed stone island jutting out of the water.
Sam and I began the drive along the narrow double lane road, twisting and turning through each curve which seemed to double on itself, dodging oncoming scooters, cars, buses and trucks and seeing ourselves passed with equally blinding speed by the same stream of vehicles - we couldn't believe we were doing this!
We must have been out of our minds to attempt this drive, but we couldn't stop. There's no way out but to continue through 10 towns on to Salerno for 42 kilometers and steer through over 1,600 hair-raising twists and turns. Eventually we braved the few small turnoffs at which visitors stop to view the sea and cliffs - and then back into the insane traffic.
I now love that madness. However, today I take that adventurous ride sitting in a SITA bus - which frankly is rather more frightening, but I can't help myself, I have to do it.
Each time I arrive in Amalfi, either over the mountain from Naples through Ravello or from either end of the "Costieria Amalfitana", I experience that same "whoosh" in my heart. Over the years not much has changed, which is what I really love.
The Amalfi Coast is a World Heritage Site protected from radical changes or over- development. I marvel each time over the ability of the people, who call this home, to cultivate a variety of products in such a mountainous environment.
Everything is done on the vertical. Layers and layers of terraced vineyards and lemon groves which scent the air. Since no vehicle can traverse these steep cliffs you also see working donkeys, saddled with metal containers assisting the farmers in moving their produce.
The brightly cascading bougainvillea, climbing hibiscus, flowering cactus and palm trees right next to tall, cylindrical cypress trees are a fantasy garden.
Peeking out from the vegetation, is a unique style of architecture. Ancient majolica tiled cathedral domes, arched windows and white washed "Moorish" style buildings. Once you've seen this spectacular region, you'll never forget it and it will secure its place in your heart too.
The Amalfitano’s say that when they die and go to heaven, it won't be any different then where they are now!
